The How-to Make A Flamethrower Manuel

To all those imaginative homo-superiors, constantly attempting to display your unique creativity, talented ingenuity, and shocking resourcefulness, here's a little invention of mine to re-inspire you. Countless times I've received requests to make a how-to tutorial for my flamethrower invention, but didn't have the resources or means to. But as an engineer, I'm entitled to find both the resources and means for any and all projects. So here on my blog, and in the future on You Tube, I have attempted to give the people what they want, because it is our jobs as individuals with great imaginations, and blogs, to publicly share and promote anything we've developed or seen that holds much interest to others, and most importantly to ourselves. Keep in mind that this post is an incomplete tutorial so please, by all means, feel free to comment if you have any questions, if I missed anything, or have actual comments.

In the past, long ago but not too long ago, I designed a flamethrower using 2 by 4 technology. If you aren't familiar with 2 by 4 technology, research the Cartoon Network show "Kids Next Door" where a militia of kids utilize weapons made from materials you can find anywhere. Why 2 by 4 technology? Well because, and I quote, "I just didn't have the proper fundage bra. LOL, JK, SEMICOLON."  If you are anything like me, you will find a way to invent without a large enough source of income.

Finally after a long week of deep concentration towards designing this work of art I call the Pyro-Gauntlet, I finally succeeded in a worthwhile design that spewed flame at an ideal distance. The only let down was that I new, because of it's novice 2 by 4 design, the genius work of art would eventually fall apart. Now enough wasting precious time, here's how to make your very own flame thrower (cheap), that throws flame from the palm and not the wrist:

Step 1: Materials

1. Small metal elbow nozzle.

Made mine from a thin piece of a hollow metal rod, bent it, then sealed off the gaps with solder after connecting it to the tubing. Acquiring the proper nozzle is the hardest part of making a "palm mounted" flamethrower because there aren't any nozzles for this specific design. The closest thing I could find was here - 1/8 inch metallic elbow pipe. This is actually a very small plastic valve I used to replace the previous nozzle.

2. Rubber grip glove.

You can find cheaper quality ones at your local dollar store, they are pretty flame/heat resistant, or check here. Please keep in mind, I do mean an actual glove, not an oven mitt.

3. Butane refills.

Can be found at the local drug store. If not at your local drug store check here.

4. 1-1½ foot standard plastic tubing.

There weren't any stores nearby for this so I stripped the insulation off of an Ethernet cord, resourceful right? Eventually I got my hands on some real tubing later. You can find the proper tubing here. Make sure it's wide enough to fit around the butane refills' metallic neck (about 1/8 in).

5. Duck tape.

Necessary for all 2 by 4 inventions. Easily found at the dollar store.

6. Scissors.

A much desired tool. Can also easily be found at the dollar store.

7. An empty standard size Arizona can (or a can of the same dimensions).

Used as the base of the gauntlet. Mango's my fav-flav...and watermelon.

8. 2 Velcro straps.

Can be found at your local dollar store. For best results, I suggest you get the kind with a cinch. (This kind is not typically found at the dollar store.) Most come in a standard length, if not, just cut off the excess.

9. Disposable camera.

Sometimes can be found at your local dollar store, or any local store, but you need the one with a flash. Here's a link to it.

10. 2 feet of speaker zip cord.

Found at your local dollar store or here. Get the kind that doesn't consist of thin wires like the wires connected to your headphones that break as soon as you get them...gosh!

11. Needle nose pliers.

Found here. Sometimes at the dollar store.

12.  1 foot of copper gauge wire (or some other conductive metal) 1/16 in.

Different from plastic insulated wire because it is significantly thicker, yet thin enough to bend with pliers.
Copper isn't likely found at the dollar store, but sometimes other metal gauge can be found there. Check her for the copper gauge.
13. Blank square breadboard (about 1½in x 1½in).

You can find one here (you only need half of it), or find a random computer chip and cut a square out of it. This will not be used to design a circuit board.

14. Pack of hot glue sticks.

To insulate any exposed wiring. Can be found at the dollar store as well, or check here.

Step 2: The Base
1. Cut the top and bottom off the Arizona can by first puncturing a whole at the top with the scissors and cutting around in a circle, then cut it vertically down the middle. You should have a rectangular piece of sheet metal.

2. Cut smooth edges into the corners, then cover edges with strips of duck tape.

3. Place metal sheet curve side up rotated to where the left and right sides curve up, not the top and bottom, then cut vertical slits in the top right, top left, bottom right, and bottom left of the sheet for the Velcro straps to be fed through.

4. Slide a Velcro strap through the bottom slits and top slits.

Step 3: Ignition Source
1. Disassemble the the disposable camera and take out the complete circuitry. Then securely tape the battery down to keep it connected to the circuit.

2. Strip the tips of the zip cord and connect each terminal to one the terminals of the main capacitor (The big one next to or connected to the flash). Then strip their ends as well.


3. Break off a piece of copper gauge with the pliers (enough to fit around your ring finger) and fold the tips of the ends with the needle nose pliers as well. Make sure to strip off any enamel with the scissors.


4. Connect one of the ends of zip cord terminals to the piece of insulated copper wire by wrapping it around the copper then twisting it tight. Use the hot glue to cover any exposed wire. The copper gauge wraps around the tip of your ring finger. My design is modified, the wiring doesn't have to go underneath the glove.


5. Mount the camera circuit board to the base with tape, anywhere is fine. I used more metal wire to mount my circuit board to the base instead of duck tape.


6. Connect the other end of the zip cord terminal anywhere on the metal nozzle by wrapping it around the nozzle then twisting it tight. Make sure the stripped end of the cord makes contact with the metal. Since I used a plastic valve, I had to tie the zip cord's wire to the very tip of the valve in order to ignite the butane.
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Step 4: Palm Mount
1. Use the scissors to expand one of the holes in the center of the bread board to completely fit the nozzle all the way to its bend. Like the image above.

2. Use the scissors to strategically carve wholes in the board. Use some of the copper gauge to mount the board in the center of the gloves palm by feeding it through the glove and the wholes in the board. To secure the wire, curve the tips of it into the board. In other words, find a way to creatively mount the board in the center of the glove.

3. Place the nozzle head into the center whole of the board.

4. Strategically feed another piece of copper gauge through the lower center of the board to wrap around the other head of the nozzle connected to the plastic tube. Fold the tips over into the board to secure the copper. This is to keep the the nozzle from shifting when you move your hand around. Refer to image 1 above.

Step 5: Fuel Injection
1. Connect one end of the standard plastic tubing to one end of the nozzle.

2. Use your needle nose pliers to hold the neck down on one of your butane refills as you connect the other end of the tube onto it. You use the pliers to prevent the butane from spewing out as you try to place the tubing over its neck.

3. Wrap a foot of copper gauge at its center around the neck of the butane refill and pull its ends down towards the bottom of the canister, then bend it there until the two ends meet. Lastly use the needle nose pliers to twist the ends of the copper tightly together until they are completely bound. This will eventually result in a pulley system that releases the butane.
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4. Securely mount the butane in the center of the base upside down with duck tape. The neck of the refill is facing your elbow while the nozzle is in your palm, making the tube curve around.

5. Cut another piece of zip cord and peel off one side and strip its ends.

6. Tie one end down to the twisted ends of the copper (image 2 above). As for the other end, tie it to itself, leaving enough space to loop it around your middle finger.


Step 6: Test Drive
1. Put the glove on.

2. Loop the single wire's end around your middle finger (above image). And wrap the small piece of copper, connected to one of the wires on the camera circuit, tightly to the tip of your ring finger (image 1). Mine has been replaced with something equally effective (image 2).
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4. Finally tightly strap on the base on the inside of your wrist. I got fancy with the Velcro and made belts.

5. Charge camera. There should already be a button built in the circuit that charges the camera's flash.

6. When camera has charged (red light is on), elevate your wrist to apply pressure on the neck of the butane refill to release butane (image 1). Then touch the opening of the metal nozzle with the copper on your ring finger to create a spark that will ignite the butane (image 2).
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Demonstration: Pyro-Glove